On
the eastern coast in the heart of Italy lies the marvelous wine growing
region of Toscana, home of the extraordinary Sangiovese based wines of
Chianti, Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino. Outside
of
the Piemonte region in NE Italy which is home to the renowned Nebbiolo
based
Barolo and Barbaresco, Tuscany is the most famous wine region in
Italy.
The area is huge with over 157,000 acres (63,633 hectares)
under production and yielding 57 million gallons of wine.
Wines
of Italy account for 60% of U.S.A. wine imports. When I find
out
how much of that comes from Chianti, I will alter this paragraph and
report it here. I have another statistic that will probably
fit
here. Annual wine consumption per capita in Italy is about 26
gallons per person compared with 2 gallons per person in the U.S.A.
Chianti, with over 5,000 vintners, has been divided into two
appellations: Chianti Classico and Chianti,
which
consists of seven subzones. The subzones, clustered around the Classico
zone, are: Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Colline
Pisane, Montalbano, Rùfina and Montespertoli. (By
the way,
Chianti Classico refers
to a defined area, zone or appellation only and does not imply or
suggest a superior growth
or bottling method.)

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All appellations within
Chianti
fall into the DOCG classification.
(Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) (Name of Origin
Certified and Guaranteed) DOCG wines,
first
classified
in 1980 with the intention of adding a quality classification to the
top of the wine pyramid,
began with five wines. Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino
Nobile di
Montepulciano, all from Tuscany, and Barolo and Barbaresco, both
produced in Piedmont. All five had solidly established international
reputations and all but one, Brunello (developed since the middle of
the 19th century), had been produced for centuries in one form or
another. The selection of the five
for elevation to the peak of the Italian wine pyramid was, therefore, a
foregone conclusion. Today, a total of 24 wines have been awarded the
prestigious DOCG status. The List
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A DOCG
wine must meet standards that are stricter than those stipulated in DOC
regulations. One of the principal differences is the lower yields
imposed by the DOCG rules. The reductions in output have probably done
more to boost the quality of the wines than any other provision in the
production codes. The rules also require in-depth chemical analysis for
all DOCG wines. Laboratories recognized by the government must carry
out the examinations of the wines' physical composition. Once the
analyzes have demonstrated that the chemical properties are in
accordance with the standards specified in the DOCG regulations,
committees consisting of expert tasters sample each producer's wines.
The committees can reject wines that fail to meet the specified sensory
standards or instruct the producers to take steps to remedy
deficiencies before approving or discarding the product. Upon receipt
of a favorable report on the outcome of the chemical and sensory
analyzes, the producers' consortia or, some other official
body issues small pink numbered seals that fit over the corks in the
bottles of DOCG wines. Strict controls are applied to ensure that the
number of seals issued corresponds to the amount of wine that can be
produced in accordance with the limitations of the
regulations.
Additional
wines are petitioning for DOCG classification, so the existing group of
24
will continue to grow.
Chianti is a
blended wine
made from four grape varieties. They are
sangiovese,
canaiolo,
and two grapes which are used mainly for white wines, trebbiano,
and malvasia. Recently, cabernet
sauvignon is being added to some Chianti blends. More about
that
later. Chianti, depending upon where the grape is grown and
the
vintage, ranges from a light and fruity wine all the way to a
full bodied, dry, tannic and acidic wine that will age for 10 years or
more.
The
Chianti production code requires a minimum of 75% of the sangiovese
grape be used. (80% for the Classico appellation)
The code allows up to three other varieties to be used. Red Canaiolo
(up to
10%) and white Malvasia and/or Trebbiano (up to 6% each). Beginning
with the Classico appellation harvest in 2005, the white grape
varietals are eliminated. Click here to read the
Chianti
Classico DOCG Production Code. The Chianti
production code
also
imposes strict limitations on
production. A maximum of 6.6 pounds (3 kilos) of grapes per
vine,
and 16,500 pounds (30.36 Quintals) per acre, and 559 gallons per
acre. Minimum alcohol requirements are12% for Chianti and
12.5%
for
Riserva. Ageing requirements are 12 months for Chianti and 24
months for Chianti Riserva.
Italy
Wine
Regions

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Chianti
Wine
Regions

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The famous Black Rooster - Chianti Classico area wines can be part
of the "Consorzio del Marchio
Storico-Chianti Classico", whose primary purpose is to verify the
quality of the wine and promote it. It was founded in 1924 by
33
producers
meeting at Radda in Chianti. The wines that are part of the Consortium
have their bottles marked by the Consortium's seal of guarantee
depicting a Black Rooster circled by red if they are
Chianti Classico or circled by gold if they are Chianti Classico
Riserva.
The word "Riserva"
on the label can be used for only DOC or DOCG wines and it indicates
the wine is of superior quality and has
been aged for at least 3 years before being released. For
your
information, Barbaresco Riserva is aged for 4 years and Barolo and
Brunello receive 5 years of ageing.
The words "Vino da Tavola" on the label is an enigma. The
name
implies an everyday, simple and inexpensive table wine where you will
find your "value" or "bargain" wines. The wines typically
come
from grapes that are inferior and do not qualify for
official recognition or they could be from appellations outside of
Chianti. However, the wines could
come from the excellent grapes of DOCG growers whose excess production
is not permitted to be sold under their own Chianti label.
Italy
has 1.2 million growers. Famous DOCG
vintners frequently purchase grapes from these growers and utilize
their
excess production capacity to bottle table wines. There are
no
regulations for Vino da Tavola except, of course, for the normal health
and safety rules applied to all wines.
Ironically, Vino da Tavola also applies to the new "Super Tuscan"
wines. Some of these "ST" wines
can fetch $100 - $200 on your wine merchants shelves. ST
wines
began over 30 years ago when vintners wanted to try new blends with
their sangiovese grapes but were prevented from doing so by the highly
restrictive classification codes. Adding other red grapes
such as
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which were then illegal,
and deleting the white grapes of Malvasia and Trebbiano added greatly
to the body and flavors of the new wines but they violated the then DOC
rules and the vintners were not allowed to display the DOC, or even the
IGT, classifications on their labels. Over the years, these
ST
wines have gained a significant following of loyal customers who
routinely pass over a $20 DOCG wine and purchase a $60 bottle of Vino
da Tavola.
Here's a fun little piece of information. Do you remember the
straw covered bottle we always associated with cheap Chianti
wines? That bottle is called a Fiasco. (fee
YASS co)
The Italian word for
flask. The straw protected the thin glass in the bottle and
kept
it from tipping over. Fiaschi are hard to find these days because of
the prohibitive labor cost of hand wrapping each flask to store a cheap
wine, and the higher quality more expensive wines with aging potential
need
bottles that can be laid on their sides.
Here is another fun piece of trivia information. We are all
aware
that
Brunello di
Montalcino,
the highly
desirable Sangiovese Grosso based wine, is named in honor of the
village
of Montalcino located in the SW area of Tuscany. Additionally, Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano,
another highly desirable Sangiovese based wine, is named in honor of
the
village of Montepulciano located in the SE area of Tuscany.
However, the very popular Montepulciano wine, is based on the
Montepulciano grape and is not named after the Tuscany village but
after the Montepulciano grape which is grown in the region of Abruzzo
(see the maps above) located East and South of Tuscany and is famous
for a personal favorite wine of mine, Montepulciano d'Abruzzi DOC and
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG. You may want
to
read this paragraph twice. I wrote it and it confuses me.
Men are like grapes. Women have to stomp the shit out of them
until they mature into something worth having for dinner.
Pronunciation
/ Terminology Guide
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Bianco
|
Bee
ON co
- White
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Brunello
di Montalcino DOCG
|
Brew NELL
Oh Dee Mon Tall CHEE No
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Canaiola
|
Caw
nah YAW loh - and - kah-nay-YOH-loh
(red wine grape)
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Carmignano
DOGC
|
Car me NAH
no
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Chianti
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Key AWN
tee
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Denominazione
di
Origine Controlata e Garantita
(DOC) (DOCG)
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Day
Nom E Nah Zee ON Nay - Dee
Oh Ree GEE Nay - Con Troll OTT
Ta - Gar ran TEE
Ta
(Name of Origin Certified (Controlled) and Guaranteed)
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Dolcetto
|
Dole CHET oh
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Fiasco
|
Fee YASS co
(Flask-squat straw
covered bottle)
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Gattinara
DOCG
|
Gah
Tee NAH rah
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Indicazione
Geografica Tipica
|
help me
please
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Malvasia
|
Mall
vah SEE ah (white wine grape)
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| Montalcino |
Mawn
tall CHEE no
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Montepulciano
|
Mawn
teh pool CHAH no
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Nebbiolo
|
Nay Be-OH
Low
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Piedmont
(Piemonte)
|
PEED-Mont
or (Pay-MAWN-tay)
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Riserva
|
ree ZEHR
vah
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Rosso
|
Ro-So
- Red
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Sangiovese
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San
Jaw VAY Seh - or - San Joe VAY
Seh (red wine grape-Chianti)
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Trebbiano
(France-Ugni Blanc)
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Treb e AH
no (OO
nee blanc) (white wine grape)
(used in brandy)
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Tuscany
|
TUS
kuh nee (large Italy growing region)
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Vino
da Tavola
|
Tuh Voh La - Wine
of the Table - Table Wine (also applies to
Super Tuscan)
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Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano
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VEE
no NAW be lay dee mawn teh
pool CHAH no
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